Welcome to Kairouan, UNESCO World Heritage City, home to countless treasures of historical merit, and is considered one of the most important sites of the Islamic World.
The oldest Mosque in Africa, dating back to the 7th Century CE, was founded during the great period of Islamic expansion by the Umayyad Dynasty, the first caliphate which saw its empire stretch from the Iberian Peninsula across North Africa and across Central Asia. Kairouan's significance cannot be understated, it is considered by many that 7 pilgrimages to its mosque are equal to a single Hajj to Mecca.
The original mosque was completed around 670 CE, shortly after the founding of Kairouan, however almost none of that original structure remains as, around 690 CE, the entire mosque was destroyed during a period of occupation by the Berbers. A term for the collective indigenous groups who occupied North Africa prior to the arrival of Islam brought about by the Arab Conquests. Therefore the site that you are able to visit today is almost exactly as it was when it was reconstructed by the Aghlabid Dynasty from the 9th century onwards.
I visited Kairouan at the end of Ramadan on April 20, 2023 and so while many paces you wanted to visit were either closed, or had reduced opening hours, it also meant that everywhere was far quieter than usual. I'd based myself at La Marsa, a district on the coast north of the capital Tunis as the surrounding location was filled with easily accessible places I wanted to visit, such as the ancient city of Carthage, and the picturesque Sidi Bou Said.
Kairouan is about 2 to 3 hours south of the Capital Tunis, depending on whther you take the highway or the overland route. My tour guide took me on the overland route so that we could view the remains of the great Zaghouan Aquaduct. A Roman aquaduct that fed Carthage with water from the hills 132km away!
Though I did not, it is meant to be well worth taking the time, especially if you're venturing this route south of Tunis, and visiting the town of Zaghouan where you'll find the source of the aqueduct. Located at the foot of the mountain's north face, the town hosts the remains of an elaborate Roman Temple built upon the natural spring.
Kairouan also hosts another architectural wonder: The Aghlabid Basins. So named after the ruling dynasty that held Kairoaun when they were constructed in the 9th century CE. As Kairouan is located upon a naturally arid steppe, the Umayyads upon founding Kairouan are reported to have constructed a series of large reservoirs around the city, none of which survived the tumult of Kairouan's early years. The two, large circular reservoirs that can be seen today are the same as they were in the 9th century, built to replace and upgrade the originals.
The Basins serve two purposes for Kairouan: both storing water, and providing partial purification of the water before supplying it into the city. The reservoirs provided this purification by acting as settling tanks, storing the water until the level rose sufficiently for it to travel onto the next reservoir, where further settling would occur. Finally, the water would then be allowed to flow into a series of covered cisterns where it could be drawn for use in the city.
There is a small tourist information office located at the entrance to the basins, it is here that you can acquire the tickets for the basins, as well as other sites in Kairouan. The office also serves as a small museum with old photos and illustrations surrounding its use in history.
Additionally, the tourist office has a rooftop terrace which offers the best view of the basin complex. Perhaps because I visited during the Month of Ramadan, it was not possible to walk up to the basins themselves. Regardless of whether you are able to get up close to the basins, the tourist centre offers other conveniences that make it worth visiting. A small gift shop, useful guides of the city, and free toilet facilities too. Especially useful if you've taken the scenic route from Tunis!
Medina, a word that is most often associated with the Islamic Holy City in modern day Saudi Arabia, it is also the Arabic word for city or town. However, in this context. Medina refers to the old, walled part of a town or city in Northern Africa.
Despite the age of Kairouan's Medina, with many parts dating back to the City's original 670 CE founding, the narrow winding streets are alive with the hustle and bustle of a vibrant, thriving populace. It is worth taking the time to lose yourself in the Medina's winding alleyways, covered souks, merchant stalls, and traditional workshops.
Walking along the winding streets and within the many souks scattered around, you'll be greeted by the characteristic charm of the vibrantly white-washed walls and vibrant blue doors and shutters that seem to typify the historic parts of Tunisia. Although most of the souk stalls and workshops were closed during my visit, (perhaps because of Ramadan, or perhaps because the Medina becomes more vibrant after dark and when temperatures drop?), there were enough open to offer more than a glimpse into the daily atmosphere and experience of Kairouan.
I walked past more than a few workshops where the people were crafting everything from magnificent carpets, woven on traditional wooden looms, to freshly fried delicacies. And of course, there were more than a few furry felines relaxing in the quiet shady spots watching the world go by.
Another notable historically significant building in the Medina is the Mosque of the Three Doors. Built in the 9th Century during the Aghlabid era, as with the Basins outside, this Mosque is notable for being one of the earliest examples of a Mosque with a richly decorated external facade, and is noted by UNESCO.
I explored Kairouan during the final days of Ramadan on April 20, 2023. And while most things were open and available, there were many that were either closed, or had restricted opening hours. However, the advantage of visiting during Ramadan, is that it is significantly quieter than normal! Affording a great deal of freedom to explore at a more relaxed pace. For anyone that doesn't know, these North African countries can feel overwhelming with the hustle and bustle, and very insistent market sellers!
My guide drove me to Kairouan, and when we were exploring the Medina, it was easy for us to park on the street opposite one of the main gates. If driving yourself, I'd recommend scoping out a place to park in advance. I can imagine it is far more difficult to find a space during the rest of the year!
During this period of travel, I had not yet amassed my full arsenal of prime lenses. Instead these photos were taken with my Sony A7RV and Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens.